Controlling comfort and humidity in your home Whether it is a newer stile “Flow-through” or a more traditional “Drum humidifier” they all need to be controlled. High humidity levels (excess moisture) in you home can not only cause water pooling on the lower edge of window pane and sill, it can also cause mould growth around windows, inside walls, attic spaces and basements.  Humidity levels in your home will rise and fall relative to outdoor air temperature  As air cools, water vapour condense causing humidity levels to fall, as air warms it gains the ability to absorb water (Grains moisture per pound of dry air). Cooling by evaporation During exercise our body temperature raises and we start sweat. The evaporation of this moisture lowers our body temperature. Low indoor humidity levels also have the same affect on our bodies. Moisture on our skin will evaporate thus cooling the surface skin temperatures. This is quite often why we feel cool in our homes even when the furnace thermostat is set at 24 Degrees Celsius. Dry air is also a good conductor of electro static charge.     Percentage of Relative Humidity (%RH) Percentage of Relative Humidity (%RH) needs to be adjusted each time the outdoor air temperatures raises or fall in order to maintain a safe and healthy comfort level.  Here is a simply Temperature / Relative Humidity chart you can place next to your humidifier controller Out Door Air Temp (Deg C)     % OF Relative Humidity (setting on your controller)             -30                                                       15%             -25                                                       20%             -20                                                       25%             -15                                                       30%             -10                                                       35%             -5                                                         40%              0                                                         45%      See 'Printable Documents' to print a copy of temperature humidity chart.  A good time to check and set RH Percentage levels is early evening as the out door air temperatures starts dropping after sun set. Check local weather channel, verify over night outdoor air temperatures and adjust RH according.
	Before you start finishing your basement now is the best time to seal all air leakage. 1)   Remove all insulation from the band joist (rim joist). This insulation will be reused. 2)   Clean out all loose mortar from the joint between the Foundation Wall and Sill Plate. An old blade screwdriver works best. 3)   Spray low expandable foam in any area you see light or feel air coming through.        If a Sill gasket was used to seal this area do not remove it. Use low expandable foam to fill any voids, areas you see light or feel air coming through. 4)   Using 1 inch ridged foam boards, cut them 3/8 (10 mm) shorter than the space between each floor joist and 3/8 inch (10mm) smaller than the space between Sill Plate and floor sheeting. 5)   Place this ridged foam board on the Band Joist (rim joist), using low expandable foam, fill the 3/8 inch (10mm) gap. It will set up within seconds. Once all this has been completed you can reinstall the original insulation.
	After installing a new air filter seal the opening of the filter gage. This will prevent unfiltered air from by-passing the filter. If not sealed dust and dirt particles from the sounding area can be drawn in to the furnace, forming a thin film of dust on the exterior of the heat exchanger. This can reduce the efficiency of the heating system.
	To seal off the filter gage, simply place a length of foil duct tape over the filter and onto the metal flanges of the filter gage. Simply cut or peal off the duct tape when it’s time to replace the filter.
Up to twenty present of the air we pay to heat and cool is lost due to air leakage from the ducting system. To reduce this air leakage, tape all seams with foil duct tape. This can be knuckle scraping, time consuming work but it will reduce air leakage and in most case improve air flow  to every room of your home.
	All high efficient heating system will have a condensate pump or drain line discharging condensate water to a waste drain. Mid or Low efficient system do not have a condensate drain line or pump.  During your next maintenance service of the heating system, don’t neglect this unit. Ensure the Service Tech removes the top cover and cleans float assembly and drain. If you heating system drains to a waste drain ensure the tube is not clogged or kinked and is fully inserted into the waste drain.
	Central Air Conditioning System will have a condensate drain line (tube) In this photo it’s the white ABS tube lower right, some applications may use clear tubing. It is illegal to simply have this condensate drain into a hole drilled through the cement floor.
	Direct Vent Heating System. It is important to keep the combustion exhaust and combustion air intake areas clear of snow built up. When either air intake or combustion exhaust vents are blocked the heating system will shut down on safety limits. Never vent combustion gases out under a veranda, porch or deck.
	Natural Gas / Propane regulators  All regulators have high gas pressure relief valves. In the event of over pressurization within the main lines this valve will vent to atmosphere, thus preventing high pressure gas from entering the dwelling. Keep this area clear of snow and ice built up.